HOW TO SHINE YOUR SHOES LIKE A REAL MAN

There’s fashion advice that real men should know how to do even if they can afford to pay someone else to do it for them – whether that’s mending an item of clothing, simply sewing on a button or polishing shoes to a mirror shine.

The first two are important sartorial skills to have, but no-one is going to be judging you on them quite the way they’ll notice your shoes. Admittedly, in a sea of black, fake leather square-toed monstrosities, the daily choice you’ve made to wear nice real leather shoes puts you one step ahead of the pack, but taking it to the next level with an old fashioned mirror shine really shows everyone that you mean business.

The shoe shine tools you’ll need to have on hand:

Felt shoe polishing cloths
These clothes are usually made from cotton chamois, and they’re perfect for not only applying polish, but are essential for helping you bring out a mirror shine on your cherished leather shoes. Any cobbler worth your time will have a good range for you to choose from, otherwise head online to the Hanger Project to pick one up.

Horsehair shoeshine brush
This one’s a no-brainer – you deserve 100% natural horsehair bristles to bring a natural, glowing sheen to your shoes. They come in a range of sizes, and some have black bristles and others have neutral ones. It’s good to have options to use on different coloured shoes. Get a smaller travel sized brush to use when you’re on the go – those hotel shine kits are nasty and shouldn’t come anywhere near your prized shoes.

Leather conditioner
You don’t have to splurge, but for shoes that will last you a lifetime or until your tastes change, Saphir is some of the best available. Their ‘Renovateur’ is a cleanerand conditioner that will help keep leather supple and nourished. If you prefer buying in person, pick up some Collonil or Waproo conditioner from your cobbler.

Cream-based shoe polish
Cream-based polish contains more pigment than wax-based polish, so it’s good for covering up blemishes and serious scuffs in the leather. Be careful when using it, though, because the extra pigment means extra big stains on the sofa and your better half will kill you.

Wax-based shoe polish
Along with your other tools, this is where you want to buy the best stuff you can afford. #Menswear aficionados are enamoured with Saphir, and for good reason. The stuff brings out the best mirror shine. Also worth checking out is GlenKaren, whose all-natural range of products actually smells good enough to eat (not creepy at all). If you can’t source these, Kiwi’s “Parade Gloss” will do for your black shoes, but with better polish and a bit of practice, your shoes will have the hi-shine effect you’re striving for.

Let’s get started.

How to prepare your shoes

Before you start applying polish to the shoes, you need to get them ready. Start by using one of your cloths to wipe away any visible dirt and debris. Use a small amount of water on the cloth if you need to, but at the end of this process you want a shoe that looks “clean”. Wait for them to be fully dry before proceeding to the next step.

Condition and polish

Now that your shoes are ready to be polished, use the other cloth to apply a small amount of conditioner over the shoe and then follow up immediately with either wax or cream-based polish applied sparingly over the whole shoe. If the edges are looking a little worse for wear, now is a good time to also apply a dab of conditioner and polish to these areas so they don’t end up looking drab.

Once the polish is applied to one shoe, let it rest while you follow the same process for the other shoe. Then, using your horsehair brush, go over the whole shoe to bring out a natural shine in the leather. Sound easy? That’s because it is, and as a minimum you should be doing this regularly so your shoes always look in good nick.

Getting that mirror shine

Take things up a notch by giving the toe caps and heel counters of your shoes a mirror shine. Wrap one of your polishing clothes tightly around your finger and very gently apply a thin film of wax polish on the area you want to bring a high shine to.

Dampen the end of the cloth you’re polishing with in water and using a tiny bit more polish, work it gently into the leather in circular motions using only your finger. The more circles you make over the leather, the more of a shine you’ll begin to see. Keep polishing in this way until you reach your desired level of shine.

It takes a bit of time to get the perfect shine, but once you have it down it’s something you can include in your sartorial kit so you’re always looking polished whether it’s for a mate’s wedding, a work interview or just kicking it on the weekend in your new brogues.

Shine on!

MASTERING THE ART OF WEARING THE CASUAL BLAZER

Legend has it that the origins of the blazer lie with the Royal Navy. The story goes like this: in 1837 a young Queen Victoria paid a visit to a ship named the HMS Blazer. In preparation for the Royal inspection, the ship’s captain ordered his crew to smarten up by wearing navy blue double-breasted jackets over their striped seamen’s sweaters.

The look (and the name) stuck. Gentleman all around the world know that the blazer is the easiest way to make the perfect first impression. Ask any sartorially-inclined man to recite his list of essentials, and the blazer is guaranteed to make it to the Top 5 (if not higher). It’s undeniable that the blazer is a significant part of almost every man’s wardrobe, but the garment possesses a surprising amount of versatility given its ubiquity.

The blazer is, inherently, a smart piece. No matter how you wear it, it instantly sharpens your image and provides an upgrade for your personal style. That being said, the blazer shouldn’t be limited to formal ensembles. A blazer can be dressed down for casual occasions, giving you a look that is still clean cut but has a more relaxed, fashionable feel.

Rules For A Casual Blazer

There’s a lot of misinformation floating around in men’s style cyberspace, so let’s go over the blazer basics:

Ideally, it shouldn’t be part of a suitThis is one of those sixth sense things. Somehow, even if it seems like a perfectly ordinary jacket, you can always tell when a suit has been separated. There’s a good chance your suit jacket is too formal to fit the casual aesthetic you’re going for and will end up throwing off the whole look.

It should be shorter in the bodyThe traditional rule of thumb (literally) says that the hem of your jacket should hit around the thumb knuckle, the one between the end of your thumb and where the joint meets the palm. Your blazer should, like a good lawyer, cover your ass, but it shouldn’t be overly long either.

It should be fitted to accommodate additional layers in winterA suit jacket is meant to fit just one (shirt) or two (shirt + waistcoat) layers underneath and is tailored accordingly. A blazer, on the other hand, should be fitted to allow for layering. When the cold weather hits, you’ll be thankful for the ability to layer multiple pieces, including knitwear, beneath your blazer.

Experiment with different colours, fabrics and patternsDon’t be afraid to get bold and creative, as that is often what marks the difference between good style and truly great style. Try out vibrant block colour blazers, classic prints and patterns like stripes and checks, and a range of different fabrics from linen to velvet. If you go this route, the blazer should be the statement, so make sure you exercise appropriate restraint elsewhere.

Build a collectionThis goes hand-in-hand with the previous rule. Your blazer collection is a chance to try out all kinds of different styles and brands. Fill your closet with a mix of inexpensive and pricier pieces, so you’re ready for anything. And don’t forget to shop well come sale time, as blazers are often the last items to go on sale.

Get To Know Your Types Of Men’s Blazers

A blazer can go one of two ways. It can be a restrained way to sharpen up an outfit and say “I mean business,” or it can be a way to assert your individuality and make a statement. Whichever way you’re going, the first step is to know your types of blazer:

     
Wool / BlendWool is a standard blazer fabric best suited to the autumn/winter season. A navy wool blazer is the classic, but it’s certainly not your only option. Choose this if you’re looking for something on the nicer end of the casual spectrum. Wool can be mixed with both high-end and low-end fabrics, meaning wool blend blazers are often cheaper and can sometimes be even more flexible than other options.

TweedTweed is a heavyweight fabric that is also best saved for cold weather. Tweed is practical, but still a stylish way to keep warm in the winter. The texture of the fabric adds an extra bit of interest that other blazers, as well as overcoats, don’t have. Don’t be fooled by the old-school country club vibe – the tweed blazer can be totally modern.

LinenThe linen blazer is strictly a look for those balmy summer months. On the plus side, the fabric is incredibly lightweight and cool. On the downside, it’s also easy to wrinkle or stain. Linen is ideally suited to casual wear, especially when the blazer is a little more unstructured.

Colour BlockSummer = time to get out the boldest, brightest colours in your arsenal. Work your way up the colour scale if you’re not ready to dive headfirst into the most daring tones. The safest bet is to anchor the look with neutral shades, but a patterned shirt is also a possibility if you really want to push the limits.

Patterns and checksWhen it comes to patterns the possibilities are practically endless, which means there’s no shortage of opportunities to wear them. Regardless of the season, there’s a pattern that will look great. Stripes are a classic, preppy choice with heritage. Checks also make an outfit stand out. There’s no need to stick to restrained designs, so feel free to boldly go where ever your sense of style leads you.

Structured/UnstructuredThis is an easy way to distinguish between relaxed and formal. A structured blazer is sharp, clean cut and straight-laced. An unstructured blazer, on the other hand, is softer, flexible and more relaxed. Your wardrobe should include both structured and unstructured blazers for maximum versatility.

That’s all for now, but that’s certainly not all we have to say on the subject. Next week we talk about how to style the blazer. Stay tuned…

SHOP MEN’S BLAZERS

Expert TipThe casual blazer. It sounds like a contradiction. Blazers bring to mind something Roger Moore would have worn on a yacht in the Spy Who Loved Me just before he tried re-enrty. Casual? That’s something everyone seems to have no problem achieving. In fact Australians invented “casual” dressing to the point they made it acceptable to wear thongs. Everywhere.

The thing is from time to time, “casual” doesn’t cut it and a suit suggests to everyone you have a job interview. The blazer can pull together a pair of jeans, a polo shirt and a pair of sneakers and make it look “appropriate”. Admit it, occasionally you look at an Italian and think “they look cool. In an effortless, just threw it on kind of way” (please don’t say this out loud. All kinds of wrong). What’s the common garment? The “casual blazer”. Cotton, wool, plain or check, navy or khaki or somewhere in between. It doesn’t matter. It’s “casual” after all.

- Matthew Start, Group Brand Manager Cambridge Clothing

10 MENSWEAR ESSENTIALS WHEN TRAVELLING ON BUSINESS

Travelling was once a glamorous experience. These days, a trip to the airport means drowning in a sea of sweatpants. The casual vibe extends long after the flight has landed, with tourists clinging to their white gym shoes and khaki cargo shorts until they return home.

But a man like you would never do that, least of all when he’s travelling for business. These menswear essentials are the basics needed to keep you prepared for any situation you may encounter on your trip. In most cases they’re already in your wardrobe, but if not, you’ll never regret the purchase.

Blue Unstructured Blazer
The blue blazer has been on every list of menswear essentials since the beginning of time (well, since the beginning of the blazer at least). It’s a wardrobe staple that works with almost any pair of chinos or jeans, and can save you in the evening if you need to smarten up. A blue blazer is a versatile piece that can be dressed up or down and matched well with any number of bolder colours or patterns. And as an added bonus, it folds up nicely and travels well.

Washed Slim Denim Jeans
Of course you would never dare travel without at least one trusty pair of jeans. Again, the blue goes with almost every shirt colour and any shoes. You can’t beat utility like that when you’re trying to travel light. Stick with a slim fit and a darker wash. You’ll get far more use out of that pair than anything in a more outrageous colour, with an extreme cut or covered in distracting details.

Charcoal Suit
Every traveller knows packing effectively means getting the most out of the minimum. A charcoal suit is your best bet when it comes to dressing up. It’s better than black, as you won’t look like a waiter, but still more appropriate for formal occasions than other colours. You may also be able to separate the jacket and trousers for use in smart/business casual ensembles. It’s a timeless style with just the right amount of Mad Men appeal.

Brown Dress Shoe
Your footwear of choice should be the brown shoe. It strikes a balance that even Goldilocks would approve of: not too formal, not too casual, but just right. You’ll still look like you give a damn about what’s on your feet. The brown will match your grey suit for any occasion when business casual is the dress code, and it will work equally well for a night out on the town.

White Shirts
When we’re talking basics, it doesn’t get any more basic than this. A crisp white shirt is a must-have for any man, travelling or not. The white shirt is completely adaptable and climate/sweat friendly. Whether worn with a suit or jeans, it’s a polished and sophisticated sartorial choice. Keep it subtle for business and add pops of colour with small, easy-to-pack accessories to transition it into pleasure time.

White T-Shirt
Ok, maybe it actually does get more basic than the white shirt. The white t-shirt is the wardrobe basic, the foundation upon which every man’s clothing collection is created. There isn’t much that needs to be said here. Sleep in it, wear it to the gym, throw blazer over it…the white tee is good for anything and everything.

Basic Brown Belt
Brown shoes, brown belt. It’s a no brainer. Stick with something classic and simple that works with your suit first and your casual get-up second. Of course you want everything to look like you just stepped out of a page in D’Marge but it’s far more important for your suit to look perfect than your off-duty outfits. If you keep the belt basic, it should go well with anything you throw at it. If you can get a reversible one. Black one side, brown the other.

Knitted Sweater
Having options is important when you travel, because you never know exactly where you’ll find yourself or what the weather will be like when you get there. A lightweight knit is indispensable in the face of airplanes and other uncomfortably air-conditioned areas. Remember the business travel motto: stick to grey or navy for maximum versatility. Try Uniqlo for sweaters that are stylish, high-quality and affordable.

Lightweight Sneaker
You may have a sweet collection of kicks, but they’re better left at home (ah, parting is such sweet sorrow!). Opt for lightweight sneakers when you’re travelling to save space and avoid those pesky overweight luggage fees. They’ll be good for when you want to wear something casual and will be more friendly on your feet if you want to go for a walk or run.

Tortoise Sunglasses
You could go for the basic black, but tortoiseshell adds an extra dash of chicness and refinement that’s hard to beat. The classic Wayfarers will work with almost any outfit, face shape and skin type. Aviators are also a solid option if you like the Top Gun look and have a slightly homoerotic volleyball game planned at some point during your trip.

Quick Guide to Men’s Suit Options

If you are in the market for a great fitting suit, you’ve probably heard the terms Off the Rack, Made to Measure, and Bespoke. What’s the difference? A lot, actually. Here’s a quick guide to men’s suit options and some advice on how to make an informed decision on what will work best for you and your budget.

Off The Rack

Off the rack suits are what you most commonly see. They are machine made, mass produced, and vary widely in terms of quality and standards. You will pay a premium for a suit by a big-name designer despite the fact that it takes the same amount of time for the machine to make a designer suit than a no-name label. Sizes are standardized and unless you can find a brand that nails or gets very close to the fit you prefer, you should plan to invest some money with your tailor.

PROS: Affordable, wide availability.

CONS: Designed for mass market (one size doesn’t fit all), which means you will have to invest some extra time and money with your tailor if you want a great fit. Limited choice with regard to quality, fabrics, and construction. In the case of a workhorse suit, this could lead to the suit deteriorating quickly.

He Spoke Style Advice: If off the rack is where you want to go, make sure the suit jacket fits your shoulders properly and be willing to throw a little money your tailor’s way to get the best fit possible.

Made To Measure

A made to measure suit is cut from a pre-existing pattern but with more variations to get closer to a proper fit. It is still being manufactured by a machine for the most part though some made to measure programs will offer handmade options for certain parts of the suit. With made to measure you have much more control. You choose the fabric, the details, and so on, though the amount of control will vary from program to program. Some may allow you a choice of only a few options, while others are more comprehensive and may offer up to 15 or more choices on details. Made to measure has advanced considerably in recent years and you can definitely get extremely close to a perfect fit from a made to measure program. Made to measure is sometimes referred to as custom suiting.

PROS: More control, higher quality, a more custom fit.

CONS: A bit more expensive, 4-8 week delivery time, plus allowances for any alterations needed once the garment arrives and you are fitted.

He Spoke Style Advice: If Made to Measure fits your budget, I definitely recommend it. Not only are you getting a higher quality garment, but depending on the program, you will have much more control over customization of your suit. And if the program you are working with offers a high level of control, be sure to go all out on the custom details. You want your suit to be your own, to stand out, and to say something about you. Don’t try to design a suit you saw on the rack in a department store. Not sure where to make a statement? Choosing an interesting lining for your suit jacket is a great place to start.

Bespoke

The true custom option and the highest expression of sartorial craftsmanship and quality. Unlike a made to measure suit, which is cut from a pre-existing pattern, a bespoke suit uses a pattern that is unique to the individual. It is truly your own personal pattern. The term ‘bespoke’ comes from the days when a tailor had bolts of cloth and the client would choose a particular cloth. That cloth was then said to have “been spoken for.” Bespoke suits are generally completely handmade, though depending on the program, machines may play a role at some point in the process.

PROS: One of a kind, complete control over design and options, superior quality, superior fit.

CONS: Cost prohibitive, longer delivery time.

He Spoke Style Advice: There really is nothing like a bespoke suit. Custom clothing is an entirely different experience in terms of fit, quality, and feel. However, you pay a premium for that level of suiting; and for good reason. Budget-wise, bespoke is not for everyone. If you can afford it, do it. You definitely won’t regret it.

My Take

If you are serious about investing in your wardrobe, try to avoid purchasing your suits off the rack. An off the rack suit will almost always require some sort of tailoring and depending on what needs to be done, could end up costing more than you paid for the suit. Instead, find a reputable made to measure or custom suiting (or bespoke, if your budget allows) program to work with. Remember, a great fitting suit is an investment that should be a staple of your wardrobe for years.

What are your experiences with off the rack, made to measure/custom, or bespoke suiting?

Collar Stays

If you own a dress shirt, chances are you’ve got a set of collar stays. Most shirts you buy will come with a set of cheap plastic collar stays, which are not very effective. If you haven’t already, it’s time to make a small investment and upgrade your style with a set of metal collar stays. Here are a few recommendations.

Shop Collar Stays

Why upgrade to metal collar stays? The function of collar stays are to keep your shirt collar in place as well as to give the collar some structure. Since plastic collar stays are just about as flimsy as the fabric that they’re inserted into, they aren’t much help in this area. Metal collar stays, on the other hand, have a heft to them that keep your collar flat and rigid.

Recommendations for Collar Stays

1. Brooks Brothers Collar Stay Set, $85
This is the set I own. You get 18 collar stays total—two sets of 2″, five sets of 2.5″, and two sets of 3″—which should have you covered for any situation. These are incredibly sturdy and will last forever. The leather case is also a classy touch. Worth the investment in every way.

2. Brooks Brothers Adjustable Collar Stays, $30
If you’re not ready to spring for the handsome set above or are looking for a smaller set for travel, these adjustable ones will do the trick. They’re not quite as heavy as the other ones, but with four different settings they’re incredibly versatile.

3. Turnbull & Asser Mother of Pearl Collar Stays, $75
I’m a big fan of special details for special occasions—even if they’re details you don’t see. A set of mother of pearl collar stays that you pull out exclusively for black tie events or special occasions is a small way to help make you feel a little more luxe.

A Day of Meetings in NYC

A little over a week ago, I was in New York City for a full day of back-to-back meetings. Deciding what to wear was a balance between making a sharp first impression while still being comfortable. Having to catch a 5:30 a.m. train into the city and then dash all over town from meeting to meeting from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. meant that comfort and style had to work together. The solution? Sticking to a few great basics.

Get the Look

Even when a business meeting is casual it’s still important to look sharp, especially if you are meeting people for the first time. These are the occasions when you want to feel completely comfortable and confident, and sticking with simple and versatile basics is a great way to achieve that. A navy blazer, crisp white button-up, and slim dark denim are three pieces that absolutely no man should be without in his closet. It may seem overly simple, but it’s a timeless combination that always works and never goes out of style.

Give any neutral color palate a boost with a colorful and unique pocket square. Earlier this summer, I spent some time browsing a few fabric stores in New York City’s garment district and ended up coming home with several yards of interesting fabric that my tailor, Earle Bannister, turned into a limited run of special pocket rounds.

This Look: Navy blazer c/o Reiss (now ON SALE, more inexpensive options here) – White dress shirt c/o Banana Republic – Jeans by A.P.C. (New Standard) – Plaid pocket round with pink edge by E. Bannister for He Spoke Style (similar here) – Brown leather messenger bagby Coach – Watch with brown leather strap by Timex – Brown belt c/o Banana Republic –Grey polka dot socks by Banana Republic – Burgundy wingtip dress shoes c/o Johnston & Murphy

Plaid Sport Coat

I talk a lot about the importance of considering the versatility of a suit as well as being creative when it comes to breaking it into separates. If you’re going to invest in something, you should get more than your money’s worth. However, there are times when no matter how creative you are, a suit jacket as a separate just doesn’t quite hit the mark. It could be that the fabric won’t blend with more casual fabrics like cotton or denim, or that it’s simply too formal looking to be dressed down. Enter the sport coat.

Get the Look

Also known as an ‘odd jacket,’ a sport coat wasn’t just called that because it lacked a matching pair of pants. In the beginning, at least, a sport coat was defined by small details that distinguished it from a regular suit coat. These details included pleats on the back of the jacket—these coats were called fancy-backs—as well as any number of unique, and sometimes fairly odd, pocket treatments. Of course, a third characteristic that could establish a jacket as a sport coat is what we commonly think of when we hear the term today—a bold pattern.

Not nearly as formal as a suit, and slightly less dressy than a blazer, a sport coat looks great paired with items that have a bit of a ruggedness to them. Wear it with some worn in denim, a crisp but casual button-up, and a pair of dress boots for a classic casual, but stylish look.

This Look: Plaid sport coat by Brooks Brothers – Shirt by Neiman Marcus (similar here) –Selvedge denim jeans by A.P.C. (New Standard) – Pocket square by Reiss (not available,similar here) – Watch by Timex – Belt c/o Banana Republic – Wingtip dress boots c/o Allen Edmonds (Dalton)

Consejos para evitar tener una piel grasa

¿Tenéis una piel brillante y a veces aparecen puntos negros? Es posible que tengáis la piel grasa. Para solucionar este problemas de belleza, existen algunos trucos y consejos que se pueden adoptar.

La piel grasa es un problema de belleza muy corriente en los hombres. Porque los hombres tienen la piel más gruesa que la de las mujeres, tienen tendencia a tener el rostro más brillante y los poros más dilatados, dos imperfecciones provocadas por un exceso de sebo. Felizmente, existen soluciones para mejorar fácilmente estos desarregloscutáneos.

Para evitar tener la piel grasa, la primera regla que se debe seguir es cuidarla. Limpiar regularmente la piel del rostrocon lociones, jabones o geles apropiados y efectuar una exfoliación dos veces por semana con el fin de eliminar las impurezas.

No se deben utilizar productos a base de alcohol, como los after-shave perfumados. Estos son muy agresivos y no secan la piel tanto como se podría pensar. Con el fin de no amplificar el problema, conviene protegerse del sol que incrementa la producción de sebo. Con el fin de recuperar una piel fresca, se aconseja comer de manera equilibrada. Se debe priorizar la carne magra, el pescado, las verduras, y beber mucha agua.

Además de este régimen sano, se deben tomar complementos alimenticios a base de cobre y cinc. Estos últimos son muy eficaces para el tratamiento de las pieles grasas. Finalmente, si a pesar de esto se sigue teniendo una pielbrillante, se puede pensar en una crema matificadora.