Legend has it that the origins of the blazer lie with the Royal Navy. The story goes like this: in 1837 a young Queen Victoria paid a visit to a ship named the HMS Blazer. In preparation for the Royal inspection, the ship’s captain ordered his crew to smarten up by wearing navy blue double-breasted jackets over their striped seamen’s sweaters.
The look (and the name) stuck. Gentleman all around the world know that the blazer is the easiest way to make the perfect first impression. Ask any sartorially-inclined man to recite his list of essentials, and the blazer is guaranteed to make it to the Top 5 (if not higher). It’s undeniable that the blazer is a significant part of almost every man’s wardrobe, but the garment possesses a surprising amount of versatility given its ubiquity.
The blazer is, inherently, a smart piece. No matter how you wear it, it instantly sharpens your image and provides an upgrade for your personal style. That being said, the blazer shouldn’t be limited to formal ensembles. A blazer can be dressed down for casual occasions, giving you a look that is still clean cut but has a more relaxed, fashionable feel.
Rules For A Casual Blazer
There’s a lot of misinformation floating around in men’s style cyberspace, so let’s go over the blazer basics:
Ideally, it shouldn’t be part of a suitThis is one of those sixth sense things. Somehow, even if it seems like a perfectly ordinary jacket, you can always tell when a suit has been separated. There’s a good chance your suit jacket is too formal to fit the casual aesthetic you’re going for and will end up throwing off the whole look.
It should be shorter in the bodyThe traditional rule of thumb (literally) says that the hem of your jacket should hit around the thumb knuckle, the one between the end of your thumb and where the joint meets the palm. Your blazer should, like a good lawyer, cover your ass, but it shouldn’t be overly long either.
It should be shorter in the bodyThe traditional rule of thumb (literally) says that the hem of your jacket should hit around the thumb knuckle, the one between the end of your thumb and where the joint meets the palm. Your blazer should, like a good lawyer, cover your ass, but it shouldn’t be overly long either.
It should be fitted to accommodate additional layers in winterA suit jacket is meant to fit just one (shirt) or two (shirt + waistcoat) layers underneath and is tailored accordingly. A blazer, on the other hand, should be fitted to allow for layering. When the cold weather hits, you’ll be thankful for the ability to layer multiple pieces, including knitwear, beneath your blazer.
Experiment with different colours, fabrics and patternsDon’t be afraid to get bold and creative, as that is often what marks the difference between good style and truly great style. Try out vibrant block colour blazers, classic prints and patterns like stripes and checks, and a range of different fabrics from linen to velvet. If you go this route, the blazer should be the statement, so make sure you exercise appropriate restraint elsewhere.
Build a collectionThis goes hand-in-hand with the previous rule. Your blazer collection is a chance to try out all kinds of different styles and brands. Fill your closet with a mix of inexpensive and pricier pieces, so you’re ready for anything. And don’t forget to shop well come sale time, as blazers are often the last items to go on sale.
Get To Know Your Types Of Men’s Blazers
A blazer can go one of two ways. It can be a restrained way to sharpen up an outfit and say “I mean business,” or it can be a way to assert your individuality and make a statement. Whichever way you’re going, the first step is to know your types of blazer:
Wool / BlendWool is a standard blazer fabric best suited to the autumn/winter season. A navy wool blazer is the classic, but it’s certainly not your only option. Choose this if you’re looking for something on the nicer end of the casual spectrum. Wool can be mixed with both high-end and low-end fabrics, meaning wool blend blazers are often cheaper and can sometimes be even more flexible than other options.
TweedTweed is a heavyweight fabric that is also best saved for cold weather. Tweed is practical, but still a stylish way to keep warm in the winter. The texture of the fabric adds an extra bit of interest that other blazers, as well as overcoats, don’t have. Don’t be fooled by the old-school country club vibe – the tweed blazer can be totally modern.
LinenThe linen blazer is strictly a look for those balmy summer months. On the plus side, the fabric is incredibly lightweight and cool. On the downside, it’s also easy to wrinkle or stain. Linen is ideally suited to casual wear, especially when the blazer is a little more unstructured.
Colour BlockSummer = time to get out the boldest, brightest colours in your arsenal. Work your way up the colour scale if you’re not ready to dive headfirst into the most daring tones. The safest bet is to anchor the look with neutral shades, but a patterned shirt is also a possibility if you really want to push the limits.
Patterns and checksWhen it comes to patterns the possibilities are practically endless, which means there’s no shortage of opportunities to wear them. Regardless of the season, there’s a pattern that will look great. Stripes are a classic, preppy choice with heritage. Checks also make an outfit stand out. There’s no need to stick to restrained designs, so feel free to boldly go where ever your sense of style leads you.
Structured/UnstructuredThis is an easy way to distinguish between relaxed and formal. A structured blazer is sharp, clean cut and straight-laced. An unstructured blazer, on the other hand, is softer, flexible and more relaxed. Your wardrobe should include both structured and unstructured blazers for maximum versatility.
That’s all for now, but that’s certainly not all we have to say on the subject. Next week we talk about how to style the blazer. Stay tuned…
Expert TipThe casual blazer. It sounds like a contradiction. Blazers bring to mind something Roger Moore would have worn on a yacht in the Spy Who Loved Me just before he tried re-enrty. Casual? That’s something everyone seems to have no problem achieving. In fact Australians invented “casual” dressing to the point they made it acceptable to wear thongs. Everywhere.
The thing is from time to time, “casual” doesn’t cut it and a suit suggests to everyone you have a job interview. The blazer can pull together a pair of jeans, a polo shirt and a pair of sneakers and make it look “appropriate”. Admit it, occasionally you look at an Italian and think “they look cool. In an effortless, just threw it on kind of way” (please don’t say this out loud. All kinds of wrong). What’s the common garment? The “casual blazer”. Cotton, wool, plain or check, navy or khaki or somewhere in between. It doesn’t matter. It’s “casual” after all.
- Matthew Start, Group Brand Manager Cambridge Clothing
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